- After germinating seed, when should the seedlings be potted?
If you germinated seed on top of potting mix in a small pot then there is no need to transplant the seedlings at this stage. They can happily grow together in a community pot until they are about 2 years of age.
If you have germinated the seed in a small cell tray, when would you transplant the seedling?
Once the seed has a root growing down into the mix and the root is at least 1 – 2cm long, and there is a green leaf growing upward and the leaf is least 1 – 2cm long then I transplant the seedling. Of course you can wait longer until the seedling is larger but the root has a limited chance to grow downward in a cell tray. If possible, it is better to germinate the seeds on the top of a pot and then there is no need to transplant them. In my case, as I have so many seeds to germinate, I use cell trays so I can place them on heat mats to hurry up the process.
What do you transplant them into?
If I have to transplant baby seedlings, I do this very gently as they are fragile at this stage. I mostly use 50mm native tubes as I can fit 50 tubes in one stand. Seedlings are quite happy sharing with a friend in a community pot with a few others.
I pot them into seed raising mix that I make up, though the store bought one is fine. Poke a little hole in the mix and place the seedling root into the hole. Gently firm the mix around the seedling and then spray with water to dampen the mix.
Where do I place the pots and how do I look after the seedlings?
Keep the seedlings out of the sun completely. The best place to keep them is in a shaded and sheltered position, preferably on the south side of your house under the eaves, under a verandah, or in the house is good too. When my seedlings are first repotted after germination, it is still winter. I feel it is too cold for them in the shade house, even though it has a plastic cover over it. The seedlings have lived their short lives on a heat mat, so I keep the pots in my germination area until spring. Once I feel the temperatures rising and the frosts are over, I take the pots down to the shade house.
Be careful not to place the pots where the seedlings may come into contact with hail, heavy rain or wind. As mentioned, they are a bit fragile at this stage.
Thoroughly water the pots once or twice a week. Seedlings like to be kept very slightly damp but not wet. Wet will kill them. They should not be sitting in water or a saucer of water. The water needs to drain out the bottom of the pot. If you feel they are drying out too much, give them a spray each day with a water spray bottle, or give them a light spray with a hose.
Should I fertilise them?
The seedlings will still have their seed attached for about 6 months and they get nourishment from the seed. Most seed raising mixes have a slow release fertiliser in them so I don’t think it is vitally important to fertilise them in the first 6 months. If I am using a foliar spray fertiliser on plants in the same shade house then I will spray the babies as well.
Once they are 6 months old then it is a good idea to give them a weakened solution of a soluble fertiliser regularly. There are many good fertilisers available but the ones I have used are PowerFeed and Seamungus. In a perfect world, I would use the weakened solution on the seedlings once a month in Spring, Summer and Autumn. Unfortunately I am not disciplined enough with too many seedlings so I make sure they also have Osmocote.
What about Pests and Diseases?
With seedlings, the worst pests are caterpillars, mealy bug and fungus gnats, but you may also experience problems with other pests depending on where you live. A caterpillar can decimate a little seedling overnight. Mealy bugs and Fungus Gnats can cause damage that can result in rot and the seedling ‘falling over’. Prevention is better than cure. Spraying regularly with Eco-oil can go a long way toward prevention. Yellow sticky traps are good for killing fungus gnats.
When do I repot them individually or plant into the garden?
I would not plant the seedlings in the garden until they are about 2 years of age, unless they will be in a well-sheltered position and safe from frost, storms, sun, hail and heavy rain. It also doesn’t hurt to use a small bamboo stake or similar and a soft tie to secure the seedling so there is no movement when you wriggle the seedling. This will help them to grow roots and establish. Make sure they go into a well-drained soil and water them in.
I find the period between baby seedling and 2 year old is a dangerous time to repot seedlings. They do not like to be disturbed and need at least 3 leaves before I would attempt to repot. This is why I do not sell seedlings on my website until they are at least 2 years of age.
If you are planning to keep your plants in pots for the future, you can leave them in the community pot until they are bulging to get out. Although if they are left too long, then there is no goodness left in the seed raising mix and also the roots are limited as to where they can grow.
As I usually use 100mm pots for community pots of 5 – 10 seedlings, when I repot them at 2 years of age, I would most likely pot one seedling per 100mm pot. If some seedlings are still a bit small even though they are 2 years old, then I would keep all the small seedlings in the community pot for a longer period of time and just repot the larger seedlings.
With seedlings, it is better to keep them in a slightly small to snug sized pot than to overpot them.
Category: Help Guide
Do you sell blue Clivia?
- I am getting this question a lot lately, as well as purple and white. I have to explain to the person that there is NO SUCH THING as blue or purple Clivia. I could make a fortune if I could breed such a thing. Pure white Clivia are also just a dream at this stage.
This furphy has come about mostly on ebay where some international sellers have photoshopped photos of Clivia and made them look blue or purple. They have then listed seed for sale on ebay from blue Clivia. Sad to say that many people have been duped and bought these seeds. They will not know for approximately 5 years that they have been duped until their plant flowers common orange. Due to Clivia being such slow growers, these dodgy sellers are able to get away with selling seed from plant colours that do not exist.
Many Clivia enthusiasts and growers world-wide have reported this to ebay but unfortunately they will not do anything about it. It is merely our word against the seller that blue Clivia do not exist. These sellers even get good feedback from buyers because seed does arrive in the mail so the buyer provides good feedback. What sort of feedback would the seller get in 5 years time when the plant flowers?
Searching on Google images for ‘blue Clivia’ results in the following: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=blue+clivia&espv=2&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjWrbLt39LSAhXIxbwKHensA5QQ_AUIBigB&biw=1280&bih=590
Searching on Google for ‘purple Clivia’ results in the following: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=blue+clivia&espv=2&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjWrbLt39LSAhXIxbwKHensA5QQ_AUIBigB&biw=1280&bih=590#tbm=isch&q=purple+clivia&*
It is best to do your homework and buy from reputable sellers.
(Photo credit is US ebay, ernwat-0)
Why won’t my Clivia flower?
This is a question I have heard many times over. It can be frustrating when you have waited and are excited about the flowering season only to find your plant doesn’t flower.
There are so many reasons why a plant does not flower.
Age of the plant
My first question is ‘How old is the plant?’ Often people buy a Clivia seedling at a market or nursery not realising that it can take around five years to reach flowering size. This comes as a shock to those that thought the plant would be fast growing and flower within two years. Some buyers are told that the plant will flower when it reaches 4 years of age, or when it has 11 leaves. This is only a guide and not necessarily accurate. All plants are different and reach maturity at different times. I have had plants flower at 3 – 4 years of age and yet I have other plants that are now 10 years old and I am still waiting. The species, C. nobilis, is notoriously slow to flower often taking more than 10 years.
Health of the plant
With C. miniata, the flower embryo develops around January/February timeframe and the plant flowers in September. If the plant was stressed or was in bad condition around this time, the flower embryo may not develop. Even if the health of the plant improves after this and looks great in September, it may have missed flowering due to its health at that critical time of development.
Clivia love a good fertilisation regularly. Although Clivia in the garden may flower for many years without being fertilised, the flowers do tend to become more scarce and smaller. A good regular fertilisation will keep the plant healthy and producing flowers each year.
Environmental conditions
Clivia are subject to weather conditions like other plants. They need at least 6 weeks of cold weather to flower. After this cold spell, the warming temperatures prompt the plant to commence flowering. Plants that are kept in pots inside a warm house may miss this cold spell and not flower. Best to put an inside plant out on an outside verandah or cold room for a while. In some countries where it is gets to freezing point over winter, growers keep their plants in a basement or garage where it is cool but not freezing.
Clivia can flower at slightly different times each year depending on if we have had a cold winter or a warmish winter. Although most C. miniataflower in September, some are a little slower and may flower in October or November.
The amount of light seems to also be a factor. I have seen a huge array of lovely healthy plants planted in the ground under a forest of tall trees. They rarely flower and I believe it is because it is too dark for them. ‘Bright shade’ is the best.
Often a first time flowering plant will not flower the second year. Perhaps the energy involved in producing the flower and usually berries as well, exhausts the plant. Some growers will not pollinate a first time flower. Every now and again it seems that even a plant that flowers regularly will take a break.
Potash
Many people swear by using Potash to promote flowering. I have tried Potash for the last few years, just a small amount sprinkled around the plant and then watered in. Knowing the flower embryo develops around January/February, I use the Potash in November/December. I cannot say whether it has worked or not. Some plants have flowered when I didn’t think they would but others that I felt should have flowered, did not. I will keep using the Potash as it can’t do any harm and anything that may help flowers to develop sounds like a good idea to me.
F1 and F2 Terminology
- Most people new to Clivia breeding will have heard the term F1 or F2 with regard to crosses between plants or seen one of these terms on the label of a plant, and scratched their head as to the meaning of this strange term.
Often, an assumption is made as to the meaning of the terms and the terminology is then used in further breeding efforts. In many cases, these terms were incorrectly used originally and then the incorrect use is further propagated. Eventually the result is confusion regarding the breeding of a plant, particularly when the plant is sold to a novice.
‘P’ generation
In 1856, Johan Gregor Mendel (1822 – 1884) began a decade-long research experiment to investigate inheritance using garden peas. True breeding parents, he referred to as the ‘P’ generation for parental generation. He crossed two plants from the ‘P’ generation and documented the different characteristics and colours in the parental generation as well as subsequent generations.
F1 generation
F is short for the Latin word filia which translates as daughter or son. F1 or F1 refers to the first filial generation which is the offspring from the initial cross between two parent plants (‘P’ generation).
Mendel discovered that the F1 generation displays the dominant features from the two parent plants rather than a merging of traits, which was the common thought at the time. In further generations, hidden features appeared in a percentage of plants. Mendel coined these the ‘dominant’ traits and the ‘recessive’ traits.
In 2009 the Melbourne Clivia Group first published an article by Helen Marriott titled, An introduction to interspecific hybrids, revised in 2018, where Marriott discusses the thoughts of well-known growers. In the remainder of this article, there will be relevant texts quoted from that material.
To maximize the potential of interspecifics, the breeding of more than one generation is necessary. Rudo Lotter, for example, argues that in a first generation cross (F1), such as crossing C. miniata x C. gardenii, the siblings will not exhibit a lot of variation. To bring out further characteristics that are recessive, the best F1 siblings are crossed between themselves (or selfed) to create the F2 generation. (Marriott, 2009)
F1 does not apply to a plant that has been selfed. A plant that has been selfed is not a cross between two genetically distinct plants and therefore, this terminology does not apply. This is important as my own observation is that in the Clivia world, growers use the term F1 after the plant’s name to identify that the plant has been selfed. I have seen this countless times all over the world and it has become the norm to call a selfed plant, an F1. I have been guilty of doing the same for years as I accepted that this was what F1 meant. A quick review of the Facebook Clivia Groups reveals many photos of plants simply referred to by a name followed by F1. The assumption is that the photo is a selfed plant.
F2 generation
F2 or F2 refers to the second generation. If F1 was the daughter, then F2 is the granddaughter. This may be the crossing of two siblings of the F1 generation, or it may be the selfing of one of the F1 seedlings.
Mendel allowed his F1 generation to naturally self-fertilise to produce the F2 generation. The F2 generation may be the crossing of F1 siblings, or the selfing of an F1 seedling. In the F2 generation, desirable recessive traits may be apparent.
Note that if an F1 interspecific (or any other F1 for that matter) is subsequently used in a cross with a different parent, it becomes a new F1. (Marriott, 2009)
Yoshikazu Nakamura’s experience is that excellent interspecfic hybrids can be achieved already by the second generation (F2). He has often selfed his F1 interspecific hybrids, thereby bringing out many attractive features in the flowers of the F2 generation. (Marriott, 2009)
It is not correct to assume that F2 refers to a plant has been selfed, and then selfed again. For example, (Vico Yellow x self) x self. This has been used commonly in the Clivia world, and I have also heard of people referring to a parent plant that has been selfed as an F2 generation. This is also incorrect and confuses the novice purchasing a plant with the label, Vico Yellow F2.
What is the breeding of this plant?
Is it Vico Yellow x self?
Is it (Vico Yellow x self) x self?
Is it (Vico Yellow x Something) x (Vico Yellow x Something)?
Is it (Vico Yellow x Something) x self?
Although it has been suggested that we only need to proceed to the second generation (F2) in interspecific hybridisation, Keith Hammett indicates that quite often, recessive traits are not expressed until generations much later than the F2 (personal communication), so there may in fact be reason to proceed to F3 or F4 though sibling crosses or selfing. (Marriott, 2009)
Conclusion
If unsure what the F1 or F2 term denotes when purchasing a plant or seed, it is best to ask for specifics on the cross. If you plan to breed further with the plant, then knowing the exact parentage can save time and effort and make a difference with a breeding program. With my own crosses, I now only write the correct cross and no longer use the F1, F2 and F3 terminology on labels. I reserve these terms for my own records. It saves confusion for all involved.
References
Hyatt, D. (2004). What’s the difference between F1 and F2? Virginia, Journal American Rhododendron Society
Wikipedia, (2004). F1 hybrid.[online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F1_fusion [Accessed 2 Oct. 2020]
GKVK, (2018). F1 F2 F3 Hybrid Seeds and Pollination | Seed Saving Basics. [online] Available at: https://www.gkvks.com/f1-f2-f3-hybrid-seeds-and-pollination-seed-saving-basics/ [Accessed 2 Oct 2020]
OpenStax, Biology. OpenStax CNX. May 14, 2015 http://cnx.org/contents/185cbf87-c72e-48f5-b51e-f14f21b5eabd@9.85
Cultivation basics for Clivia
Clivia are happy in pots or in the garden in a well-lit shaded position. They can tolerate morning sun or filtered light but will burn in full sun. Planting them in a very dark area of the garden may result in a lack of flowering as they need light in order to produce flowers. Often people plant them under a deciduous tree and this is fine provided they do not get too much sun when the tree is bare, or are exposed to frost. Clivia do not handle frost and will end up with damaged leaves or worse.
Planting
They can be planted any time of the year but best to avoid extreme days where frost is expected, storms or very high temperatures. Plants from Clivia Market have been grown in shade houses that are not heated or in outside shaded areas, so there is no need for them to acclimatise. Very young seedlings can be fragile and are best kept in a pot until at least 2 years of age (around 5 leaves). It is recommended that seedlings in particular are staked to help them to establish. A bamboo stake and soft ties are easy to remove in the future when the plant is established. This can be determined by gently rocking the base of the plant. If there is movement, then the plant has not established yet. If the plant feels like it is not moving, then the stake and tie can be removed.
Soil and watering
Clivia need a well-drained medium where the water will drain away from the roots of the plant. Sitting in wet or soggy soil will result in root rot and the plant ‘falling over’. Clivia are better kept on the dry side than too wet. Adding coarse orchid mix to the soil around the plant when planting can help to prevent the plant sitting in wet soil.
Always water the Clivia in when first planted (Seasol is a good tonic for newly planted Clivia). Once established, Clivia in the garden barely need any water. They can survive easily on the natural rain fall. In summer they will benefit from weekly watering if there is insufficient rain. Younger seedlings may require more regular watering than mature plants. If the plants are in an under-cover area, they may need the occasional water over winter and weekly water over summer.
Fertilising
Clivia love being fertilised and will produce darker green leaves and better flowerings when fertilised. It also assists them in fighting off diseases or pests when they are strong and healthy. A slow-release fertiliser is recommended such as Osmocote. The occasional drink from a watering can of a diluted liquid fertiliser, such as Thrive, Charlie Carp etc. also helps. The only fertiliser I would not use on a mature plant is one very high in nitrogen as it will promote leaf growth rather than flowering.
Pests and diseases
The biggest enemy of the Clivia gardener is the mealy bug. They will strike whether the plant is in the garden or a pot. Often the damage is done before they are discovered. These pests are small white bugs with a tail and can be seen on the underside of leaves or in-between leaves along with white cotton-wool looking material. The mealy bugs bite into the leaves and fungus can then get into where the leaves have been bitten. Damage can be extensive if left untreated and possibly result in the plant dying. Mealy bug can be treated with Eco-oil and Eco-neem by diluting to the stated ratio and spraying with small or large spray bottle, depending on the amount of Clivia you have. Always spray under the leaves, between the leaves and around the soil at the base of the plant. You will need to spray again in 2 weeks. A good rule of thumb is to spray plants in warmer months as a preventative measure.
Snails and slugs like to eat leaves and particularly like to eat the flowers. I have not had a problem at my property with snails but have seen slugs occasionally in the shade houses. I have used an old treatment of a plastic container (Chinese take-away) with good size holes drilled into the sides. This is filled with beer and I have had success with slugs drowning in the beer. Obviously this would not work for snails unless the holes were much bigger perhaps.
I also occasionally see ear-wigs between the leaves that bite into the leaves and cause damage. The treatment for mealy bug (Eco-oil, Eco-neem) will take care of the ear-wigs as well.
Rot
Other Clivia problems include crown rot and root rot. Root rot as mentioned earlier, is usually caused by the plant sitting in a soggy medium and not draining well. Symptoms of root rot include yellowing leaves, plant leaning, plant loose in the ground and plant falling over. The treatment is to take the plant out of the ground, remove all soft and rotted material from the roots and base, even if it means there are no roots left. Cover the base and roots with Sulphur Powder or Mancozeb (both available at Bunnings). Do not plant the Clivia back into the same soil. Remove the affected soil as there most likely will be rotted roots and fungal spores in the position where the plant was. If you can, place the plant in a different location or a pot for a while. If you must use the same position, remove affected soil and place some coarse orchid bark in the position to help keep the plant from becoming soggy. The plant will need to be staked until roots establish and kept as dry as possible.
Crown rot is when rot develops on the top of the plant between the leaves. This can be caused by bug damage or water damage from a tree above. All affected leaves need to be removed and all soft and rotted material needs to be cut off the plant. Sulphur Powder or Mancozeb should be applied to the affected area. Mancozeb can be made into a paste with a little bit of water and painted on with a small brush. The plant needs to be kept dry if possible. Depending on how far the rot penetrated the crown of the plant, it is possible that new offsets may develop all around the plant and the mother plant may cease to grow again. This is not the end of the world. One plant may suddenly become six plants. You just have to be patient and realise it may not look as good for a while.
Pot Culture
Clivia are happy in pots and make amazing looking feature plants in huge pots where they can freely offset. The best medium to use is an orchid bark where the water can drain easily out the bottom of the pot. Water when the medium feels dry (stick your finger down into the mix) and make sure you see the water draining out the bottom of the pot.
They are best located on the south side of a house or under a verandah, or even a good shady tree. They can be kept inside a house but need 6 weeks of cold weather in winter in order to flower. Ensure that where they are located, there is good air flow and no direct sunlight.
Flowering
Generally, Clivia will flower around 5 years of age with around 12+ leaves. Miniata flower in Spring (September) but may flower out of season now and again. A flower spike develops down between the leaves around July/August and may become damaged if hit by heavy rains or hail. The flowers will be open for a few weeks and may be pollinated by bees or other insects. If pollinated, berries will form that are green until they are ripe around June/July. When ripe, orange flowers will have red berries, yellow flowers will have yellow berries and peach flowers will have peach berries.
Reasons for plant not flowering:
- Plant is too young
- Plant was under stress at the time the flower embryo should form (January- – February)
- Plant is in a location that is too dark
- Plant is not healthy (has rot, insect infestation, needs water or fertiliser)
- Plant produced many flower heads and berries the year before and is recovering
- Plant did not get cold enough over winter. Clivia need 6 weeks of cold temperatures in order to flower in Spring. Plants kept in pots in the house may not flower if kept warm over winter
- Sometimes we cannot determine a reason.
Stuck Flowers
I have seen many people ask questions on various forums regarding plants with flowers stuck down between the leaves and what they can do to get the flower stem to come up. I have also heard of some very weird and wonderful remedies that are ‘guaranteed’ to bring the flowers up.
This can happen to a plant during normal flowering season but I have found it is more common when a plant is flowering out of season. I don’t worry if I can see buds down between the leaves and they seem to take a while to come up. Some plants are just slower than others at elongating the peduncle, however when the flowers start to open when still down firmly between the leaves, then I take action. I have had a number of plants where the stuck flowers have eventually rotted and caused damage to the crown of the plant.
My solution is quite simple. Give the plant a good watering and bring it into the house where it is warm. The warmth in the house brings the peduncle up quite remarkably. The photo on this page shows a plant that has flowered out of season in the shadehouse. The flowers were opening down between the leaves. The second photo shows the flowers one week later after being in a warm house, and yes, my house is very warm. I do like the heater.
Forget about closing the plant in a dark cupboard, giving it all sorts of chemicals, banana peels, or cutting the head off a chicken and dancing naked at midnight. At the end of the day, I have found the warm house works almost every time. I have only had one plant that the flowers did not come up. Later I realised that I had been too late in bringing the plant in. Rot had already started down in the buds and the damage was already done. I had to cut quite a bit of the crown out to save the plant.
Why do some plants have stuck flowers? I don’t really know. As I have mentioned, it does tend to happen when a plant flowers out of season. A plant may flower normally every year and then one year it will have stuck flowers with no real rhyme or reason for it. Some may say a lack of fertiliser, though I can say that is not the case with my plants.
If your plant has stuck flowers and it is in the garden where you cannot bring it into a warm house, I would suggest keeping a close eye on it. Water tends to gather down between the leaves and contribute to the rot. Sometimes I use clothes pegs to hold the leaves apart as then more air can get to the affected area. If you can see that rot is starting or you are concerned about it as the stem has not come up at all, then cut the buds, flowers and stem out. Make sure you sprinkle Sulphur Powder or Mancozeb on the cut areas to help eliminate fungal problems.
Is my Clivia poisonous to pets?
I have heard this question raised a number of times lately as people become more aware of the dangers of lilies with cats. Many people think of Clivia as a lily, and it is sometimes known as the Bush Lily or Flame Lily. As the owner of a cat and a dog, I was also concerned about this issue, so decided to conduct some research.
Clivia are from the Amaryllidaceae family which is well-known for containing a number of alkaloids including a crystalline alkaloid called lycorine which is toxic to humans and pets. The toxin has an emetic effect, resulting in nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, salivation and diarrhea when only a small quantity is ingested. It is extremely rare for a pet to ingest a large enough quantity to cause life threatening toxicosis as the vomiting symptoms occur quite soon after ingesting parts of the plant. All parts of the Clivia contain lycorine but the highest concentrate is found in the berries and the base.
Many ornamental bulbs including daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and autumn crocus also contain alkaloids that are toxic if eaten. Dogs have been known to dig up and consume newly planted bulbs, particularly if Blood and Bone or a similar fertiliser has been used. In bulbous plants, the concentration of toxins is in the bulb and ingestion of the bulb is more harmful than ingestion of foliage. Interesting is that during World War II in Holland, people ate tulip bulbs as they were starving. Reports are that they ate parts of the bulb, removing the centre part as it is the poisonous section.
The toxicity of Clivia plants is not to be confused with members of the Liliaceae or Hemerocallis family (true lilies) which can cause renal failure in cats. True lilies are very toxic and even consuming less than one leaf, licking the water from a vase, or a small amount of pollen can lead to severe toxicosis and even death in cats. Cats are unique in their susceptibility to lilies. Dogs who have ingested lilies are known to suffer from minor digestive upsets but not renal failure. Lilies known to cause kidney failure in cats include: (Easter lily) Lilium longiflorum, (Tiger lily) Lilium tigrinum, (Rubrum) Lilium speciosum, (Japanese show lily) Lilium lancifolium (Stargazer lily) Lilium oreintalis, (Daylily) Hemerocallis species.
A number of other family groups have a low toxicity level such as Philodendrons, Calla lilies and Peace lilies. They contain oxalic acid which hurts the mouth and throat, so the pet is not likely to eat large amounts.
If you own cats or dogs, it is advisable to take steps to ensure their safety around plants.
- Before purchasing indoor plants, research the botanical name and ensure the plant is not harmful to cats or dogs.
- Do not purchase lilies as cut flowers or bring a pot of flowering lilies into the house if you own a cat.
- If you wish to use Blood and Bone or Dynamic Lifter in your garden, keep a close watch on the behaviour of your dog. You may have to restrain the dog for a few days.
- If you become aware of your dog digging in the garden, ensure there are not toxic plants in the immediate area or fence off any plants you are concerned about.
- If you witness these symptoms from your pet or more serious symptoms such as seizures, paralysis or cardiac arrhythmias, consult a veterinary immediately.
The plants listed below are known to be toxic to pets if parts are ingested. This list is not complete and does not state whether the toxic level is low, medium or high risk.
Allium ampeloprasum (Leek)Allium cepa (Onion)
Allium sativum (Garlic)
Allium schoenoprasum (Chives)
Aloe barbadensis, Aloe vera (Aloe Vera)
Amaryllis sp. (Belladonna lily)
Andromeda Japonica (Lily of the Valley)
Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Pine)
Asparagus densiflorus cv sprengeri (Asparagus fern, lace fern)
Begonia spp. (Begonia)
Brunsfelsia spp. (Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow)
Buxus sp. (Box hedge)
Caladium hortulanum, Alocasia spp. Colocasia esculenta (Elephant’s Ears)
Chrysanthemum spp. (Chrysanthemum, Daisy)
Citrus aurantifolia (Lime)
Citrus limonia (Lemon)
Citrus paradisii (Grapefruit)
Citrus sinensis (Orange)
Clematis sp. (Clematis)
Colchium autumnale (autumn crocus)
Crassula arborescens, Crassula argentea (Jade plant)
Cyclamen spp (Cyclamen)
Dahlia spp. (Dahlia)
Delphinium spp. (Delphinium)
Dianthus caryophyllus (Carnation, Dianthus)
Digitalis purpurea (Foxglove)
Dracaena fragrans, Dracaena spp. Dracaena marginate, Ipomoea batatas (Dracaena)
Dracaena deremensis, tradescantia multiflora (Bridal Veil)
Erigeron speciosus (Seaside Daisy)
Eucalyptus spp (Eucalytptus)
Euphorbia pulcherrima (Pointsietta)
Ficus benjamina (Fig)
Gardenia jasminoides (Gardenia)
Gladiolus spp. (Gladiola)
Gypsophila elegans (Baby’s breath)
Helleborus niger (Hellebore)
Hemerocallis spp. (Day lily)
Hibiscus syriacus (Hibiscus)
Hippeastrum spp. (Hippeastrum)
Hosta plataginea (Hosta)
Hyacinthus orientalis (Hyacinth)
Hydrangea arborescens (Hydrangea)
Ipomoea spp. (Morning Glory)
Iris spp. (Iris)
Lantana camara (Lantana)
Lathyrus latifolius (Sweet Pea)
Laurus nobilis (Bay tree)
Lavendula angustifolia (Lavender)
Lilumn asiatica (Asiatic lily)
Lilium longiflorum (Easter lily)
Lilium speciosum (Japanese Show lily)
Lilium sp. (Lily)
Lilium tigrinum (Tiger lily)
Lobelia cardinalis (Lobelia)
Lycopersicon spp. (Tomato plant)
Malus Sulvestrus (apple seeds including crab apples)
Mentha sp. (Mint)
Narcissus spp (Daffodil, Jonquil)
Nasturtium officinale (Nasturtium)
Nerium oleander (Oleander)
Origanum vulgare hirtum (Oregano)
Paeonis officinalis (Peony)
Pelargonium spp. (Geranium)
Petroselinum crispum (Parsley)
Philodendron oxycardium, Philodendron bipennifolium Philodendron spp .(Philodendron)
Phoradendron flavescens, Phoradendron leucarpum (Mistletoe)
Portulaca oleracea (Portulaca)
Poinciana gillesii, Caesalpinia gilliesii, Strelitzia reginae (Bird of Paradise)
Primula vulgaris (Primrose)
Prunus armeniaca (seed from plum, prune, peach, cherry)
Rheum rhabarbarium (Rhubarb)
Rhododendron spp (Azalea)
Sansevieria trifasciata (Mother-in-law’s Tongue)
Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)
Tulipa spp. (Tulip)
wisteria spp. (Wisteria)
Yucca sp. (Yucca)
Zamia furfuracea, Cycas spp (Cycads)
Zantedeschia aethiopica (Calla lily, Arum lily)
References
https://www.dirtonmyhands.com/poisonous-plants-to-cats.htmlhttp://aspcapro.org/sites/pro/files/f-vettech_0402_1.pdfhttp://www.aspcapro.org/sites/pro/files/h.pdfhttp://www.pawsdogdaycare.com/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants/clivia-lily